Travellers Tales
The South West and Esperance Tour 5 days of fun
Had to drag myself out of bed at some ungodly hour to make it into the city for my 5 day adventure to Esperance. My hangover soon disappeared as I settled into a snooze, with the purr of the bus and the distinct Australian accent of our tour guide telling us about the adventures we are going to experience. I wake up as the bus stops at what can only be described as something typically Australian, would you believe a cemetery for dogs! Mans best friend mmm…
The country inland from Perth is mostly farming and it’s interesting to see the vastness of this land. We arrive at Wave Rock about lunch time and I am amazed at the sheer shape and size of the wave. There are guys that actually surf waves this size our tour guide informs us, wow…
My hangover kicks back in and I decide that sleep is the best cure as I relax into the sounds of Jack Johnson, Ben Harper and the cool music that’s on the stereo.
The drive around Esperance is Breathtaking. What a beautiful picturesque town. Amazing beaches, with waves that have power and menace, surging onto shore.
Lasagne and a nice glass of red wine with some interesting conversation bring day 1 to an end.
Day 2
A hot cup of tea, 2 pieces of toast with raspberry jam and a view to die for! As the sun rises over the Esperance harbour we begin our journey to Cape Le Grand National Park. Driving past the tree farms, there is a quiet expectation that what we are about to experience is going to be special. Back at the Esperance backpackers that night sipping a glass of red, I have to say that the day was indeed special. Hellfire Cove is a jaw dropping stunning beach! Lucky Bay indescribable! Frenchman’s Peak walk is exhilarating!
Day 3
An early start and with a full stomach we drive out of Esperance visiting the pink lake and then driving along the south coast through what is the Fitzgerald River National Park. Apparently it is one of the most important ecosystems in the world. Lots of colour from the multitude of different trees and flowers. The afternoon is spent reading and catching up with my journal.
Albany is another stunning south coastal City and the drive from the beautiful Middleton Beach around the tourist road is amazing. I couldn’t believe it, but we saw whales frolicking in the harbour from the road. The sun going down across the harbour with the wind farm in the distance is another memory that will live with me forever. After dinner, a couple of beers down the pub watching one of the local bands was an excellent way to finish day 3.
Day 4
I didn’t realise that Albany was the last place in Australia to hunt whales and after the visit to the whale museum my perception of Australians as a conservation minded country was further enhanced. It showed me the importance of protecting not only the whales, but all creatures great and small. The gap and The Natural Bridge (wow) talk about the power of the ocean!! A water fall that goes up. I didn’t think I’d ever see that!
Swimming at Greens Pool was so refreshing. What an amazing beach. It’s called a pool because this part of the beach is protected by rocks that stop the huge swells from battering the shore. The children of Denmark use this beach for learning to swim.
The trees are huge! Driving through the karri Forrest with the window open, the cool breeze on my face as we encounter the valley of the giants. The biggest eucalypt trees in the world.
We are 40 metres above the ground on a bridge that moves with the wind. My heart is beating as I hold on, taking little steps for the 600 hundred meter walk around what’s called the tree top walk. The Ancient Empire walk is less nerve wracking but no less interesting. What a great tourist attraction. Once again, environmental tourism at its best.
A 65 meter tree with metal spikes spiralling to a platform at the top. All I had to do was climb to the top. Let me tell you it was easier said than done, but I managed to inch my way to the top. What a great view!
We are all sitting in front of an open fire after dinner at the Pemberton YHA, such a cosy place. We have the house to ourselves, totally surrounded by the Karri Forrest. A couple of beers go down well as the jokes and stories fly. Such a funny night. I sleep like a baby!
Day 5
MMM … A hot cup of coffee!!
The air is brisk as we drive through the misty valleys of Pemberton through the forest to the Margaret River region. It’s a mix of cultures (surfers, wine people and farmers), but a thriving region, with a cool vibe about it. If you like surfing, this is THE place. Quality waves and some amazing surfing action. Driving the bending, winding road through the region towards Dunsborough where a whale watching tour awaits.
I was a bit worried about sea sickness, but to my joy, the tour was on a fairly big boat and the waters were protected from the big waves. After about 30 minutes, what looked like a puff of smoke in the distance was in fact a group of Humpback whales. There is something awe inspiring about watching a 15 meter animal jumping fully out of the water. The power and grace they possess is unbelievable. They were frolicking about 200 meters away. Time for Norah Jones the skipper shouts! Confused, I asked the skipper what he meant. The whales like Norah he explained. I tell you what, If I didn’t see it I wouldn’t of believed it! Within 2 minute of playing Norah Jones on the stereo, 2 humpbacks surfaced next to the boat and they were checking us all out with their big inquisitive eyes. What an experience!!
I don’t think I stopped smiling all the way back to Perth, with stops at the Busselton Jetty and Mandurah for a bite to eat. I can only describe my time on the Esperance tour with one word. Amazing!! The diversity, the pure landscapes and the people I have met made this experience one I will never forget!
The South West and Esperance Tour 5 days of fun
MY 4 DAY MONKEY MIA TOUR WITH PLANET PERTH
My time on the 4 day Monkey Mia tour started on a bright blue early morning when we were met by a cool southerly breeze and the Planet Perth Tour bus. We were met with a smile and a bit of cheekiness. Immediately I got the feeling that the driver was a relaxed and cool guy. This could be a fun trip.
The bus was full of an interesting array of people from different countries. The tour started with a drive east through the suburbs of Perth with our driver giving us tips and information about the do’s and don’ts. I don’t really have any rules (within reason off course) as long as you don’t get me in trouble or arrested was his main tip. The first couple of hours consisted of driving through the Swan Valley north to our first stop for some morning tea. We had an introduction session which was a great way to get to know interesting things about each other and got the conversation flowing amongst the bus.
Back towards the coast we headed with the pinnacles beckoning. An interesting stop at the local wind farm and a lesson on the environment. I think Australians are very environmentally conscious and proud of the beauty within their country. A weird and amazing landscape was my first impression of the pinnacles and reading about the formations made it all the more interesting.
A very healthy lunch and a swim at one of the local beaches where a dolphin decided to investigate was all I could think of as I drifted of to sleep with the purr of the bus and the warm sun on my face, as we continued along the coast to Geraldton.
I would of thought being good at snow boarding would of held me in good stead for sand boarding, but to my surprise, along with a sore bottom and sand in places I dare not mention, I realised that practice would make perfect. AWESOME FUN!!
As the sun sets in the west over the ocean, the glow in the sky is matched by the glow in my heart as our first days travel concludes in Kalbarri. A barbeque and a glass of wine completes day 1.
An early start with a coffee and toast gave me a kick-start as we head to the local surf spot for a look at one of Western Australia’s top surf beaches (Jakes Point). We watched some awesome surf action by the local surfers. After a short time in Kalbarri we headed for the amazing gorges of the Kalbarri National Park. The stark beauty, colour and ruggedness of the gorges have to be seen to be believed. Definitely take your camera as you explore. Nature’s window and the Z Bend walk being the highlights.
After another healthy lunch and sleep, I discover we are driving north through farming and wildflower country. The colours are amazing, the green and yellow from the canola and wheat farms, to the diversity of the wildflowers. The wildflower capital of the world says our driver. We turn off the highway and drive a short distance to what seems nothing but bush. Anyone want to swim says the driver. We all look at each other with confusion as we can see no water. It’s my secret spot! Shhhhh. A short walk to a hole in the ground which is an abandoned mine that has tapped into an underground river. What a refreshing swim.
Continuing north, we turn left at the Shark Bay turnoff. A world heritage listed area that is a very unique part of the world. Apparently, only 1 of 15 places in the world that satisfies all 4 major criteria in relation to world heritage. With places like Shell Beach, Eagle Bluff, the Stromotolites and Monkey Mia, its not surprising this place is so well revered.
We are having Australian spaghetti for diner tonight says our driver. What is Australian spaghetti I ask? Spaghetti cooked by an Australian he says. Australian Spaghetti in the beer garden of the Monkey Mia backpackers with a glass of red wine, overlooking the famous Monkey Mia beach is very satisfying. The colour reflecting from the sun setting, the stillness of the ocean, the dolphins swimming, the pelicans flying, the yachts sailing. What a backdrop, what a magical place!
Sunrise on the beach is a must as the silhouettes of other travellers blend in with the rising sun as the dolphins make there early morning appearance. Interacting with the Monkey Mia dolphins is an educational and spiritual experience. Looking eye to eye with a dolphin is an empowering feeling. It’s like you can feel their intelligence. The morning is spent swimming and lazing in the sun with magical Monkey Mia as a backdrop. I could quite easily spend a few more days here!
I hope you have enjoyed your Monkey Mia experience says our driver. It would be great to spend a bit more time here, but as they say in the classics the show must go on, and so must the tour! So the rest of the day we explore Shark Bay and head back south towards our destination for the night.
As we drive up the driveway to the farm we are met by Bob the farmer and his faithful sheep dog. He is a 3rd generation farmer and his knowledge and passion for the land is inspiring. He takes us for a walk, passing on some of his knowledge about life and land. We are living the farming life for a night, staying in the old shearing quarters and having dinner in the old shearing shed which has been renovated into a mini museum which doubles as a eating and entertainment area.
Day 4 begins with an early breakfast and the whistles and sounds of the local birds. First stop is a country within a country if that makes sense. We are amongst royalty! We are at the Hutt River Provence and a unique gentleman called Prince Leonard is taking us around his “country”. It’s an amazing story and could only happen in Australia. After getting our passports stamped, we continued back into Australia and after a bit of a drive arrive at the Greenough animal farm. A delightful little hobby farm with lots of unique animals, (even a crocodile). After hand feeding the kangaroos, we went to say hello to the cute horses when I couldn’t believe what I saw. While we were patting the horse a Japanese girl was taking a photo when an ostrich snuck up beside her and ate her camera. We watch the square shape of the camera move down the ostrich’s neck. We were all dumbfounded. Steve is the owner and he is a licensed snake breeder. We all sat around his little compound and he proceeded to introduce us to his Pythons. I tell you what, I’m no snake fan, but it changed my perception. They are not the slimy creatures I thought they were. In fact they are quite soft and smooth. I must say there were some very funny facial expressions amongst the group as they had snakes wrapped around there necks. After another healthy lunch, swim and sleep we arrived back to Perth to say good bye to our driver and fellow passengers.
All and all I must say that the 4 days we spent on the Planet Perth Monkey Mia tour was fun, informative, exciting, professional, relaxed and I would definitely recommend this mode of transport for anyone who has a short time to see this part of Western Australia.
TERRY O’CONNOR
STIRLING, SCOTTLAND
Edge of the Untameable - Outback Adventures
Touring the Kimberleys..... backpacker tales
Weary from weeks of backpacking and seeing the same faces in different hostels and bars I wanted a change of climate. Backpackers and guidebooks agree the Kimberley teeters on the edge of the untameable.
As the sun came up, I waited with seven other people on the hostel's porch. We climbed into the back of the four wheel drive and our guide drove east. Before long, we pulled into a petrol station to fuel up and get the mandatory start of tour introductions out of the way. Dutchy, our outback guide in a hat that looked like it did battle with a crocodile, led off, telling us that he would never tell us his actual name or birth date but that we should be sure to include our name and age in our introductions. A Scot, two Germans, an American and myself made up the tour's male portion while the women hailed from Germany, Japan, England and Ireland.
The nine of us rode away with the low pitched humming of our bus gently rocking us to sleep on the long, sealed road leading into the Kimberley. We were sleeping proof that no matter how beautiful the landscape outside the window looked, rising with the sun doesn't fit a backpacker’s biorhythms!
The bush life of waking up before light crests over the mountains took some getting used to, but the first night we quickly became accustomed to the evening’s quiet campfires and slow, hearty camp oven cooking. With swags unrolled around the campfire, cold beer in hand, we made the small talk of people who have just met. As the beer warmed and the fire cooled, Dutchy gave us the low down on the Kimberley -- it runs east from Broome to the Northern Territory border and from the Indian Ocean south to the Great Sandy Desert and is truly one of the world's last frontiers.
Between naps on the bus the next day (using the sun for an alarm clock would take us more than two mornings), the magnitude of the Kimberley's immense and ancient gorges impressed us nearly to the point of illiteracy. The apogee of vocabularies, even among native English speakers, was levelled to muttered ‘wows’ and ‘that's beautifuls’. Even entering the high tourist season, we seldom had to share a view with another person.
I stayed awake on the bus the next day and every day after that until we arrived in Darwin so I could see as much of the Kimberley’s phenomenal 421,000 square kilometres as the tour offered. The bus jostled its way through river crossings and slowed to a walking pace up rocky bush tracks. Some of the roads we drove were underwater only a matter of weeks before the tour. Not just sights guidebooks thought worth mentioning, also the region's vastness, made up predominantly of cattle stations, astounded me. The Kimberley is in fact so vast that each inhabitant enjoys nearly 18 square kilometres of personal space!
I didn't realise how accustomed to the extra legroom I became. Despite trying to ease us back into ‘civilization’ with a swim in the well populated Katherine Hot Springs and Edith Falls, I wasn't ready for the crammed landscape we drove through on the tour's eighth day. I wanted the bus to turn around and show me more of the Kimberley. The shaking of my stomach during the two hour ride on the lurching 55 kilometre road into Purnululu National Park's 200 metre high beehive like hills (otherwise known as the Bungle Bungle Range) didn't seem as nauseating as the petrol stations and used car lots outside the window.
As he probably did with hundreds of city slicker backpackers before me, Dutchy won me over to the charms of a simple, natural life in the bush. I wanted to get away from the city's Internet cafes, abundant hostels and fast food and back to waking up in my swag to a magnificent view of the Pentecost River.
